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A washing machine is designed to clean clothes, but the machine itself gradually collects detergent residue, fabric conditioner, body oils, lint and (in many UK areas) limescale. That build-up leads to the classic signs: a musty smell when you open the door, black specks of mould on the rubber seal, sluggish draining, and laundry that comes out “clean” but not truly fresh. The professional approach is simple: clean the parts that trap grime first (seal, drawer, filter), then run a hot internal clean, and finally set the machine up to stay dry between washes.
What You’ll Need (Keep It Simple)
You don’t need a trolley of products. Most homes already have the basics:
- Microfibre cloths (2–3)
- An old toothbrush or small cleaning brush
- Washing-up liquid
- Bicarbonate of soda
- White vinegar or a proprietary washing machine cleaner
- A shallow bowl/tray + a towel (for the filter)
Important: Don’t mix bleach with vinegar or other acidic cleaners.
Step 1: Clean the Rubber Door Seal of Your Washing Machine
In front-loaders the rubber gasket is the main place moisture and grime sit. Professionals always start here because whatever is living in the seal can transfer back to the drum.
Open the door fully and gently pull back the folds of the rubber seal. Wipe around the entire ring with a cloth dampened in warm water and a drop of washing-up liquid. If you spot greasy residue or black speckling, apply a paste of bicarbonate of soda and water, leave it for 10–15 minutes, then scrub lightly with a toothbrush. Wipe clean with a fresh damp cloth and dry the seal thoroughly.
Pro tip: If you mostly wash at 30–40°C, the seal will need more frequent attention because cooler cycles don’t break down oils as effectively.
Step 2: Remove and Deep-Clean the Detergent Drawer
Detergent drawers often look “fine” but still hold sticky conditioner film and hidden sludge inside the channels. That’s a direct route to unpleasant odours.
Pull the drawer out fully (most have a small release clip). Rinse it under hot water, then scrub corners and siphon sections with a toothbrush and washing-up liquid. Before you put it back, clean the drawer housing inside the machine—wipe inside the slot and the roof of the compartment where black residue can sit. Refit the drawer once everything is clean.
Step 3: Clean the Filter of the Washing Machine
If your washing machine smells “drainy” or doesn’t drain well, the pump filter is usually involved. In many machines it’s behind a flap at the bottom front.
Lay down a towel and place a shallow tray underneath. Open the flap; if there’s a small drain hose, use it first to release water slowly. Then unscrew the filter carefully and remove debris (lint, coins, hair). Rinse the filter under the tap and wipe inside the filter cavity before screwing it back in firmly.
Common signs your filter needs attention:
- Water sitting in the drum after a cycle
- A sour or stagnant smell
- Clothes not spinning as dry as usual
Step 4: Run a Hot Internal Clean (Drum + Pipework)
Once the visible parts are clean, it’s time to clean what you can’t see: the inner drum, heating element and pipework. Heat is the secret weapon here.
You have two good options:
Option A: Proprietary washing machine cleaner (most “pro” and low-risk).
Follow the product instructions and run a hot cycle (60–90°C depending on your machine).
Option B: Vinegar + bicarbonate method (effective for odours and residue).
Pour about 500ml white vinegar into the drum (or detergent compartment) and run the hottest cycle available. When the cycle ends, add 2–3 tablespoons of bicarbonate of soda into the drum and run a short hot rinse.
If you live in a hard-water area, consider a dedicated descaler every so often for limescale control—especially if your kettle scales quickly. Limescale is a performance killer and can make the machine less energy-efficient.
Step 5: Finish Like a Professional (Wipe + Dry + Airflow)
This is where most people undo their own effort. After the hot clean, wipe the drum, door glass and seal to remove loosened residue. Then leave the door ajar for a few hours so the interior fully dries. If you can, leave the detergent drawer slightly open too.
The “pro rule”: A dry washing machine stays fresher for longer.
How Often Should You Clean Your Washing Machine?
A realistic routine that keeps smells away without turning it into a weekly chore:
- Weekly: quick wipe of the seal if you notice moisture or residue
- Monthly: check/clean the filter + run one hot maintenance wash
- Every 1–3 months: full deep clean (seal + drawer + filter + hot internal clean)
Households with lots of laundry, cooler wash habits, pets, or hard water should aim closer to the “monthly deep clean” end.
Quick Habits That Keep It Fresh Between Deep Cleans
Small changes make the biggest difference:
- Don’t overdose detergent (too much creates residue that feeds bacteria)
- Go easy on fabric conditioner (it can create a waxy build-up)
- Run an occasional 60°C wash to break down oils and biofilm
- Always ventilate: door ajar after washing whenever possible
Final Words
Cleaning your washing machine like a pro is less about fancy products and more about sequence: seal, drawer, filter, then heat. Once you do it properly, your laundry should smell noticeably fresher, the machine will drain and spin better, and you’ll reduce mould and limescale damage that shortens appliance life.
And if cleaning is not your cup of tea we are here for you. Feel free to contact us and request a cleaning quote. You can find more info about our cleaning services at Merci Cleaning London or on our official Facebook page.
You may also like: Top 5 signs it’s time to hire a professional cleaner
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